Everything about Hair extensions

Introduction

So you want to get Hair Extensions but you've heard the horror stories and you're petrified that you'll end up bald, ugly and a lot poorer when it's all over? Well, if you don't do your homework then of course this could happen. But there's a way to have beautiful hair using Hair Extensions without damaging your own hair, and in fact allowing your natural hair to grow longer and healthier in the process.

 

Where Do I Start?

There are many different types of Extensions on the market, but for the sake of simplicity we will focus on two main types of application methods: Individual Strands and Wefts

 

Individual Strand Extensions

The Individual method involves taking small amounts (maybe 120-150 strands) of extension hair (natural or synthetic, but we'll get to that later) and applying to small sections of your own hair by either weaving in, heat fusing, gluing, clamping with metal rods or using waxes and polymers. All of these methods (except for the clamping which is self explanatory) involve coating your own strands with a chemical or foreign substance. These extensions usually only last a few months before they have to be taken out and completely re-done. The main problem with this method is taking the Extensions out without damaging your own hair.
Many people who sell this method to clients will swear that there is no damage, but one extension expert told me that "in 17 years of doing hair extensions we have yet to see a client who has previously had the individual method applied without damage to their own hair. Without spelling it out I will leave it to your imagination what might happen to your own hair if you melt some plastic onto it or glue or clamp something to it". There is a new method of permanent Hair extensions taking the market by storm which are the Tape hair extensions method
So, enough about the Individual method, what I'm writing to tell you about is the way to have gorgeous extensions instantly without damage. But first, a little about hair.

 

Good Hair & Bad - What's The Difference?

Hair comes in many qualities and apart from the method of application, the quality of your extension hair will determine whether or not they will look real, and how long they will last.
Please Note: The following comments on hair quality are meant as a guide only and are relevant to matching the strands of Caucasian people. The Asian and African hair strand is different in texture and structure and these comments may not apply. A trusted Hair Extensions artist with experience dealing with the African hair strand will be able to give you the best advice in matching your hair with the extensions.

Bad  - Anything Synthetic

Unless you want to look like you've got a shredded plastic bag stuck to your head avoid it at all times. Synthetic is basically plastic and will NEVER look like you grew it (unless you are 12 inches tall and your name is Barbie). Synthetic hair is however, great for dreadlocks - but that's another story.

 

Good - European

This hair mostly comes from southern Italy and Spain and usually is grown very dark. Some of it is naturally straight, some naturally wavy. European Hair is what most people use for Extensions. It is durable and looks good and it will last up to a year if cared for properly.
All of the Human Hair above starts off very dark then has it's color stripped back to nothing and then it is re-tinted (usually using fabric dyes not hair color) to all the shades available. This means that if you want platinum blonde hair it has gone through a massive chemical process to get to that color. One of the main disadvantages of all these types of hair is the inability to change your color. Because of the chemical processes the hair has already gone through before you even see it, putting hair color on top of it will cause the hair to break down and fall apart. So, if you use any of these qualities of hair make sure you are certain you have chosen the right color or color blend.

If you have highlighted (streaked) hair make sure you have your weft maker recreate your highlights (using different colors) in the wefts so that they match your own hair.

 

The Best - Raw/Virgin

Does Russian hair really exist or it is the result of great marketing spin and hype?  Long term industry hair traders often express the opinion that unless there is a paper trail to absolutely prove the existence of "Russian hair", it doesn't exist. 
Sellers of Russian hair claim this hair is like gold, but is it really?  Or does it just cost as much as gold nuggets?  Many years ago before Russia, Poland and surrounding areas were modernized, hair from these locations were more readily available, as communism fell, natives of these two countries started cutting, coloring and chemically treating their hair which rendered it no longer viable for hair extensions.
Many hair dealers question whether hair deals that claim that Russian hair is is grown in places near the Arctic Circle is fact or fiction. Whereas genetic factors may have ensured that this hair was of the utmost quality before the fall of Communism, modernization may have ended the guarantee of this quality.
According to Russian Hair marketing gurus, this hair has been grown for generations by the same families specifically to be cut and sold. It has never been chemically treated in any way (blonde hair is grown on a blonde head) and as such is much better suited to coloring and perming if necessary.
What is not mentioned is that ALL hair imported into the United States must be boiled and processed to meet US import standards.  Which means the hair is no longer virgin since it has been treated for importation.
If you are determined to acquire what is known as Russian hair, if it really is Russian, ask for iron clad paperwork to prove the origins of the hair.  Why?  Hair marketed as "Russian" will be extremely expensive and it is important that you are indeed getting hair from Russia.  If the hair broker can't prove conclusively the origins of the hair, beware.
If you can prove the hair is truly Russian and have the deep pockets to purchase it, than by all means give it a try.

 

Wefts - Hand Made or Machine Made?

What is a weft? A weft looks like a little curtain of hair attached together at the top and free flowing at the bottom. Wefts can be made by machine or handmade. All of our clip in hair extensions are excellent quality and easy to apply
Machine made wefts come in continuous widths and are then cut to size.
The basic choices come down to quality and price. If you want your hair to look real go for at least European hand made wefts, and if you can afford it (and find it - it is very rare) definitely go for the raw/virgin hair.

 

How Is It Applied?

O.K. You've got your hair - what now? Wefts are attached to your head by either sewing them to a tiny braid or cliping them in with the ready made clip in sets
The crown area of your own hair covers the top track making the extensions seem invisible. The number and size of tracks matches the number and size of wefts. The wefts and tracks ideally should be made in different sizes in order to match exactly the way your hair would look if you had grown it that way yourself.
Depending upon how much hair you need depends on how many tracks you have. For example: If I had hair to my chin and I wanted hair to my bra line (about 18" long) I might need 5 or 6 tracks/wefts depending upon my current haircut. If I had hair to my shoulders that was thin and stringy and I wanted it thicker and more luscious but the same length I might need 2 or 3 (or more) tracks/wefts.
Once the tracks are done, the wefts are sewn to them and then your own crown area hair is blended with and combed over the extensions. From now on you have to think of the extensions as YOUR HAIR.

 

How Do I Look After Them?

You look after Hair Extensions the same as you would do long hair that you grew yourself. If you have never been able to grow your hair long before it is probably because you are killing it just as quickly as it grows. Here's a few tips:

1. Wash, condition and MOISTURIZE (very important) your hair every 2 - 3 days. The extensions do not receive your natural scalp oils and so need to have moisture added every wash. If you don't moisturize your hair extensions they will become brittle and break easily leading to split and ratty ends. We recommend  a good moisturizer for Hair Extensions.
   
   
2. Treat them with respect. They will not grow back if you yank at them with a brush, burn them with the blow dryer, kill them with chemicals. Be nice to them - they cost a lot of money so make sure you get your money's worth.
   
   
3. Always brush out all knots before you wash your hair, swim, or sleep. Start at the bottom and work your way up slowly using a paddle brush.
   
   
4. Make sure you wash in between the braids to keep your scalp clean and free of bacteria.

 

What Happens Next?

Every 6-8 weeks (average) your own hair will have grown about 1 to 1 1/2 inches. The hair extensions will still be intact if the permanent ones are in. At this time you will need to return to your hair Extensions Artist and have the hair extensions removed from the head and checked for any product build up, damage etc. The hair extensions are then undone and redone.

The clip in hair extensions can be applied and removed by yourself each day.

 

Hair Extensions F.A.Q's

 

How long can my extensions be?

You can have any length you want up to about 26"-30". Any natural hair over this length is about 8 - 10 years old at the ends (i.e. it took the person that long to grow it for you) and as such loses quality. Also, anything longer than this puts extra weight on your scalp which may lead to uneven pressure and damage to your own hair. The best looking hair extensions for average height women are usually around 22" or less. Our most popular length is 18" which is to your bra lin

Can I wear my hair up?

Sure, the Extensions should not be applied any lower than the base of your scalp (about even with the middle of your ears) and so your hair under this point covers the extensions while you wear it in pigtails, ponytails, french twists, french braids etc.

 

How do I know my Extension Artist is a professional?

Now this is a hard one. Anyone can lie to you, so be aware. Ask to see photos (before/after). Ask if you can contact one of his/her long term clients. Most hair extensions clients like to remain anonymous but there is always at least one who would love to let the world know what a great job they had done on their hair. Ask how often the average client needs to replace the hair (6 months, 2 years etc). After reading this article, if you know more than the Extensions artist then go find another one.

 

Does it hurt? Will it pull my hair out?

No, no NO!!! If it hurts get out of there! The Extensions artist should braid the tracks firmly but comfortably. The tension should be even all over your head with no points pulling or hurting. Do not put up with someone telling you it has to be really tight in order to be secure. Pulling your hair out is not the idea. You will know you have something on your head for the first day or two but after that you won't even feel that they are there.

 

What about my re-growth. I'm a natural brunette but want blonde extensions

Easy. The colorist just has to work around the extensions. This makes your color cheaper because effectively you only color the crown and hairline. It also means that the hair in the braid remains virgin and when you eventually

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